The turnout construction method shown here is my latest method (this part of the article is still under construction). I use the Fast Tracks jigs (I bought mine in 2003, so it is different from what the company makes now). I construct the turnout parts on the bench, but then glue them in place on the layout. My method uses no PC board ties, not even for the throwbar. The first two photos show the Fast Tracks jigs.

The large template, above, is used as a general guide for cutting, shaping, and placing the rail. This is for making #8 turnouts, which I prefer to use. The jig shown on the right is used to actually do the shaping of the rail. This is one that use all the time. It makes it easy to shape the delicate code 40 rail. My jigs came with an instruction manual that is pretty good. However, I've watched the videos online and they are much better. Even if you don't use these jigs, the video tutorial online may give you enough ideas to build your own turnouts.

The first thing I do is construct the frog. I cut two pieces of rail to the approximate required length. Once I place them in the jig, I need to determine which rail butts up against which. I usually have the straight rail butt up against the divergent rail (opposite of what is shown in the next photo). It really doesn't matter which way, though, but the decision has to be made because it impacts how the rail pieces are filed.



Using the filing jig and a bit of hand filing, I shape the two pieces of rail and place them in the jig. I place a metal weight on them to hold them in place (the reason for the shadow in the photo below).



Next, I cut, mark, and shape the two pieces of rail that make up the wing rails (at the frog) and the points. I make mine out a full piece each. I use the jig to determine where to make the bends near the frog, and where to start filing down the rail for the points.



When I am happy with the shape of the rails, it is time to solder them together. Fast Tracks recommends using a high-powered soldering iron for soldering rail. I always used a small 35-watt unit and it just never worked well. Based on their recommendation I bought the Radio Shack #64-2187. It works great and it was the "big break-through" to having better success with building my track. Using this iron, and keeping the parts in the jig, I solder the four pieces of rail together by flooding the frog with solder. Then, using a file I clean up the solder that went where it wasn't supposed to (for example, outside the rail, etc.). Finally, the wheel clearance area through the frog is cleared away with a fine-blade razor saw (example).





(I will soon be adding photos and text for constructing the remainder of the turnout's rails...)



Here's the finished product. The only thing left to do is to stain the throwbar. Using the razor saw I make the flange clearance areas in the frog deeper as needed. Also, adjusting the Tortoise's actuator rod may be necessary to get the throwbar to move evenly to both sides.